This doesn't mean however, that it becomes something else for the rest of the year – the kitchen table is cleared of writing debris, out come old recipes books and recipe cuttings long forgotten for the past eleven months now have their pages leafed through and eagerly scanned as I look for something different to cook for this Christmas.

Just when I'm about to give up a recipe catches my eye, then another, until old favourites are firmly discarded to wait their turn for next year.

It's the month when all keen cooks will be planning their Christmas menus.

Turkey and Christmas Pudding are traditional fare, but I have to confess I enjoy all the trimmings that accompany the turkey roast more than the main meal itself.

Here are some ideas to help you plan your Christmas meal, and 'what to do with leftovers' after the festive day itself.

Whether you are having turkey, goose or duck, here are some tasty stuffings to go with the bird of your choice.

MY SPECIAL TURKEY STUFFING

Ingredients: 450g minced pork. 1 large tin chestnuts, chopped. 2 clery sticks, chopped. 1 garlic clove crushed. Grated rind of lemon. 3 medium eggs. Salt and pepper to taste. 4 chicken livers, chopped. 110g fresh brown breadcrumbs, 1 onion grated. 25g butter. 4 tablespoons chopped parsley. 4-5 tablespoons brandy. Method: Heat butter in frying pan and fry chicken livers. Then mix with all the other ingredients, stir in the brandy and eggs and season well. Stuff turkey in the usual way, or make into small balls and place around the turkey, or a separate dish, to cook for the last 25 minutes of the turkey's cooking time.


CELERY, APPLE AND WALNUT STUFFING FOR GOOSE

Ingredients: 350g white breadcrumbs. 2 onions. 50g butter. 1 small head of celery. 3 dessert apples. 110g chopped walnuts. ½ tsp mixed herbs. 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. Seasoning. 4 tablespoons milk or cream. Method: Chop onions finely and cook in butter until soft. Mix breadcrumbs, chopped celery, diced apple, walnuts and herbs together, add cooked onions and season to taste and bind with the cream.


GREEN PEA STUFFING FOR DUCK

Green peas are notably a duck's most favoured complement. It's so delicious it could quite easily suffice as a dish on its own, as well as being both light and economical, and it takes off the richness of the duck meat.

Ingredients: 3 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced. 2½ tablespoons butter. ½ tablespoon brown sugar. 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint. 1 cup fresh brown breadcrumbs. 2 medium eggs. ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. 450g frozen peas. ½ tablespoon finely grated orange zest. Method: In a heavy pan sauté the onions slowly in the butter with the sugar, stirring occasionally until soft and almost caramelised for about 20 minutes. Allow to cool, then add the mint, orange zest, breadcrumbs, egg, salt and pepper. Purée frozen peas, after thawing slightly and mix into the stuffing. This amount should be enough to stuff one young 2kg duckling. After you have stuffed your duck pour over 2 cups of orange juice, cover with tinfoil and roast at 180C/350F/Gas Mark 4 for 2 ½ hours, if cooking in casserole remove lid and increase temperature to 200C/400F/Gas Mark 6 to crisp skin.

NB. All these stuffings make excellent sandwich fillings paired with turkey, chicken or ham.

CREAM FILLED CHOCOLATE ROULADE

For those who aren't keen on the traditional Christmas Cake, try this 'light as a feather roulade'. It also makes an effective Christmas log with a sprig of holly placed on the top.

Serves 6.

Ingredients: 150g caster sugar. 6 large eggs, separated. 50g cocoa powder. 8flozs double cream. Icing sugar. Method: Line a Swiss roll tin with baking parchment or oiled grease-proof paper, or non-stick baking sheet. Whisk egg yolks until they start to thicken, add sugar and continue to whisk until the mixture is thick. Mix in the cocoa powder and whisk again. Beat egg whites in a clean bowl until in soft peaks. Fold the whites into the chocolate mixture. Pour mixture into tin and bake in the centre of oven, 180C, 350F, Mark 4 for 20 – 25 minutes until springy and cooked. Leave in tin until quite cold then turn out onto a sheet of greaseproof, which has been dusted with icing sugar. Peel the lining paper off and spread the whipped cream over the cake. Roll up the roulade, using the bottom paper. Sprinkle with icing sugar, and don't worry if large cracks form in the roulade as you roll it, this is quite normal, and looks effective with the icing sugar over it.


TURKEY CURRY

Christmas recipes using 'leftovers' caught my eye, and it hardly seems Christmas without the usual 'pickings' from the turkey carcase, served in a curry sauce. One of my recipes high on my list for using up the turkey 'leftovers'. It's rich, but very tasty.

Services 6-8.

Ingredients: 450g cooked turkey meat, broken into bite-sized pieces. For the curry sauce: 50g butter. 1 medium onion, skinned and chopped. 50g plain flour. 2 teaspoons tomato purée. 1-2 teaspoon curry powder (hot or medium). 600ml (1 pint) chicken or vegetable stock (cube will do). 300ml (½ pint) single cream. Method: Heat half the butter in a large saucepan, add the onion, put lid on pan and cook for 1-2 mins until onion has softened. Add remaining butter, when melted, stir in flour, tomato purée and curry powder, and cook over gentle heat, approximately 2 minutes. Pour in stock and stir over gentle heat and simmer until it begins to thicken, add more stock if it is too thick. Before serving, stir in the cream and stir in the turkey and simmer for 5-10 minutes until hot throughout. Pile on top of a rice base on hot individual plates or one large serving plate and serve with accompaniments of your choice.

BOXING DAY PUDDING

Ingredients: Cold Christmas pudding. Brandy 15floz (about ¾ pint). 1 teaspoon vanilla essence. 3 size 1 eggs. Method: Preheat oven 150C, 300F, Gas Mk 2. Slice pudding into an ovenproof dish and sprinkle liberally with brandy. Warm milk and vanilla essence, whisk eggs and sieve into milk. Stir, then pour over pudding slices and bake uncovered until set. Serve hot with single cream.



THE PICK OF WHAT'S IN SEASON IN DECEMBER

Fruit & nuts:
Apples
Chestnuts
Pears
Quince

Fish:
Black Bream
Herring
Mussels
Sea Bass
Turbot

Vegetables:
Beetroot
Brussels sprouts
Winter cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower Celeriac
Celery
Jerusalem artichokes
Kale & leeks
Spring onions
Parsnips & potatoes
Red cabbage
Spinach & squash
Swede


Meat, Poultry and Game
Turkey
Goose
Grouse
Hare
Mallard
Partridge
Pheasant
Rabbit
Snipe